Stage 21 - Acebo to Pieros

Today, I walked from Acebo to Pieros, covering 34km, 21 miles, and 48,684 steps.  I have no internet today at my alburgue, but I will be back to post tomorrow.  Special thanks to all my family and friends for following along and for all your support and encouragement throughout my journey.

Lights out.

Stage 20- El Ganso to Acebo

"Without ambition one starts nothing.  Without work one finishes nothing.  The prize will not be sent to you.  You have to win it."
- Ralph Waldo Emerson

Today marked my 20th straight day hiking the Camino Trail.  In some respects it feels like I just started, but in other ways I feel like I've been on the trail for a number of years now!  On my 20th day, I walked from El Ganso to Acebo and covered 24.4 km, 15.1 miles, and 36,933 steps. 

 It was one of my most difficult days on the trail for a number of reasons.  The ascent marked my highest point on the Camino for the entire journey.  I did ok with the climbing, but the steep descents were extremely challenging for me today.  I've included a picture below of the large rocks and ruts that essentially serve as the trail on many of these downhill sections.  It is hazardous to say the least!!   I was trying to protect my ankles as much as possible, but I nearly bit the dust on several occasions.  The steep declines also burn different muscles in the legs, and can be fairly hard on the knees too.  The heat and bugs were out in full force too, so I really felt tested throughout the whole day. 

 I arrived into Acebo around 2:30 and walked into the first alburgue/bar for a cold drink and something to eat.  It felt good to get off my feet and restock my carb supply with some homemade spaghetti al carbonara.  One hour later I was still sitting there chomping on Spanish olives (free with any beverage) and chatting with Carlos the innkeeper/bartender.  
 I finally lifted off the barstool around 3:30, and texted my wife to say that I wanted to walk another 8 km and cover two more villages.  I said I would see how the first 150 steps went and then make a decision.  The first 150 are usually not good after any sit-down on the Camino.  In fact, after any stop there is what is commonly known as the "Dirty Thirty."  Essentially,  this is the first very painful 30 steps you take while your body screams and begs you to put the bloody pack down, donate all your gear, and hop the first plane back home!!  I usually don't give in to the "dirty thirty" or the "Not so nifty 150", but today I decided to cut the day short.  Estalita encouraged me to do so, and things usually work out when I listen to her.  ha ha!  It also didn't hurt that Carlos highly recommended the nicest alburgue in town....just 300 meters thru town on the left.  300 meters in Spanish usually translates to about 2 miles, but it ended up not being that far down the way.  I have included a few pictures of my alburgue below.  It is the nicest one I've stayed at since I began walking 20 days ago.  It is very modern, clean, has a beautiful patio area, bar, swimming pool, etc...  I've found the alburgue promised land and life is grand....at least until it is time to try and put my shoes on and start walking again.  

Here are some pics from a challenging day in the mountains with a great alburgue choice.

Lights out.

Stage 19- Hospital de Orbigo to El Ganso

"What lies behind us and what lies ahead of us are tiny matters compared to what lives within us."
- Henry David Thoreau

 Today I walked from Hospital de Orbigo to El Ganso.  I covered 30.9 km, 19.2 miles, and 43,109 steps.  The sun was intense from very early on, and the trail was very empty after 1 pm.  I just decided to deal with the heat and push through to El Ganso.  If there is such a thing as a one horse town in Spain, then El Ganso certainly fits that description.  I literally stumbled in around 5, showered, did some laundry, and then chatted with an older couple from New Zealand for a bit.  The New Zealanders (it feels weird calling them kiwi's) are both in their mid 70's.  They did two thirds of the Camino 3 years ago, and now they're back to finish the remaining stages of the Way.  I ate dinner with two retired Americans from Pittsburgh, (Go Pens) and a Scotsman from Edinburgh.  

Tomorrow I will try and get a very early start because it is supposed to be very warm again, and rain is also forecast for the afternoon.  I also have the toughest climbing of the Camino tomorrow since my first day going through the Pyrenees.  I will have a number of significant gains in elevation to face, and there are several very steep descents as well.  I hope to cover about 25-30 km tomorrow, but it all depends on the weather and how my body is holding up.

Before I close, I just wanted to share in regards to something that happened during my Camino stage in Pamplona, way back on Day 4 of my walk.  I was all set to leave the city of Pamplona that particular morning, when all of a sudden a man came up to me and asked in very broken English if he could talk to me.  I debated for a few seconds because I am often wary of strangers, especially in large city squares... where pickpockets, and scam artists often congregate.  Something made me follow this man over to a bench in the city square and we sat down.  I was in a hurry, and I was feeling a bit uneasy with lingering in the city for too long.  The man's name was Fari.  I gathered that he was a Syrian refugee.  He shared with me that he had left to escape the war, and look for a better life for his family... away from the bombs and danger in his home country.  He shared that it took him 9 months to walk through Egypt, Libya, Algeria, Morocco, and then Spain.  When I asked in more detail about his family, the tears began to flow.  As we shared a coffee in an outdoor cafe in the square, he began to ask me about my life, family, and the Camino.  All of this was in a mix of Arabic, and our combined Spanglish!  He said he was a painter, but he could not find work in Spain.  It had been 3 months since he was last able to reach his wife and 3 children in Syria, and he was unsure if they were still alive.  He seemed surprised that I was interested in their names.  He smiled and grabbed the pen and paper I had pulled out of my bag to scribble their names down.  His wife was named Madaci, his daughter Sara was 11, and his twin girls Aya and Maroua were 9 years of age.  When I asked what they were like, his eyes began to fill again.  Pretty soon, I started weeping myself.  It dawned on me just how little hope this man had in his life.  He was in a foreign country, trying to speak a foreign language, unable to find work, and not even sure if his wife and daughters were still alive.  Before I got up to leave, I asked him if I could pray with him.  We joined hands and I prayed for him as tears began to stream down both of our faces.  I couldn't help but think how I was feeling sorry for myself over some sore feet and blisters, and this man had so much genuine hurt and heartache in his everyday life.  I prayed for strength for him, and that he might reach his family, find a job, and one day potentially reunite with his wife and children.  I prayed for Christ to come into this man's life.  He gave me a hug, and for the first time... I could see a flicker of hope in his eyes.  I told him I must go, and he said he would walk me to where the street joined back up with the Camino.  He never did ask me for anything, but before setting off on my way... I felt compelled to offer this man 3 days of my budget so he could get some food, and possibly the means to try and contact his sister in Syria.  He seemed shocked when I handed him the money, and he just kept saying Thank you Eric, Thank you Eric, buen Camino, buen Camino.  I don't tell this story to make any kind of political statement, only to share how profound of an impact this man had on my life.  I've thought about Fari and his family every day since we crossed paths, hoping and praying that he will get a job to support himself, find the strength to go on,  and gain the opportunity to one day safely reunite with his family.

Here are some pics from Stage 18 & 19 of the Camino... including a short video of a musician I encountered just before my descent into the city of Astorga.  I tried to get him to play our WV theme song... "Country Roads" by John Denver, but he didn't know that one.

Lights out.

Stage 18- Leon to Hospital de Orbigo

Sometimes we don't set meaningful goals because of the stories we tell ourselves, our limiting beliefs, and our chaotic lives.  We get bogged down herding cats, and juggling sand underwater, and soon there is no time left to reflect on what we really want out of life.
- Eric Slivoskey

Today I walked from Leon to Hospital de Orbigo covering 32.6 km, 20.2 miles, and 43,444 steps.  I would have enjoyed having an extra day in Leon, but it just isn't possible if I'm to have any chance of making it to Santiago by the 17th of June.  I did decide to get a later start after being out so late last night consuming tapas.  I woke up around 6:30 and got on the road around 8:30.  It was a very warm day, and with the later start... I ended up hiking much of the day during the peak sun hours.  Once I got out of the city, most of the  walk today was along flat dirt trails, next to busy highways leading out of the city.  I checked into my alburgue around 5pm.  My roommates tonight seem to be mostly Germans, and Romanians.

Tomorrow,  I will try and get a much earlier start to beat the heat.  I will be going through another city (Astorga), with a population of about 12,000.  I'll try and have a lunch stop there, and check out the local area a bit before setting off for my eventual overnight destination.

The internet is not reliable here, so I may have to post/combine the pictures from today with my Stage 19 post/pictures tomorrow.

Lights out.

Stage 17- Reliegos to Leon

"You will face your greatest opposition when you are closest to your biggest miracle."
- Sandra Alder

Today I walked 24.3 km, 15.1 miles, and 34,688 steps from Reliegos to the beautiful city of Leon.  I set off just as the sun was rising, and the weather was pleasant for most of the day.  I did encounter a few brief showers about halfway to my destination.  Once that front passed on, it ended up being a beautiful sunny day.  Leon has a really good feel to it, and it is my favorite of the three larger cities (Pamplona, Burgos, Leon) that I've passed through during my walk on the Camino.  

I arrived into the city in the early afternoon and had to make a run to the fruit market, and Farmacia.  I purchased some Compeed strips there, which are a sort of medicated stick on bandage that can be applied over blistered areas.  This product has been a lifesaver for me so to speak.  I certainly would have ended my Camino days ago, if not for the compeed applicators! 

In the evening, I headed out to meet Doug and Natasha for some tapas in the city.  Doug and Natasha started the Camino the day after me, and they are also making their way towards Santiago.  After finishing the Camino, they hope to go on for a bit to Finistiere (where the far western part of Spain meets the Atlantic Ocean), and then on to Portugal for a short holiday on the coast.

  Doug had the best tapas places already scoped out, so we ended up visiting 8 different tapas establishments!!  I had tapas before in Spain during a trip to Barcelona and Madrid about ten years ago, but I think this was the better experience by far.  We just wandered from street to street, and sometimes into hidden alleyways for these delicious Spanish snacks.  Tapas bars usually really get going around 8-9pm, when Spaniards tend to eat dinner. We sampled the best the city has to offer for close to 3 hours, and then we decided to call it a night. I've included some pictures below of the tapas dishes, as well as some other photos around the city.

Lights out.

Stage 16- San Nicholas del Real Camino to Reliegos

"You must be the change you wish to see in the world."
- Mahatma Gandhi

I got an even earlier start today, leaving my alburgue around 6:10.
 I walked from San Nicholas del Real Camino to Reliegos, covering 38 km, 23.6 miles, and 51,299 steps. The walk was relatively flat again today.  Much of it was through tilled fields, and loose gravel pathways that ran parallel to a country road.  There were some beautiful meadows (picture included) that showcased a variety of wildflowers.  The red flowers (poppies) have been a very common sight during my walk on the Camino.  I never get tired of seeing them.

 I've included a picture of the outside of my alburgue, taken in the early morning light.  I also included a picture of the sleeping room of the alburgue I'm staying at this evening.  I hit the lodging jackpot today, scoring a room all to myself in a newly remodeled facility.  There are ten beds in my room (bunk bed style), but I'm the only one in here.  There are a few older German couples over in the other bunkroom.  I'm excited to be on my own, and also psyched that I don't have to sleep in a top bunk tonight.  Top bunks were cool at 6 or 7, but that novelty wore off about 40 years ago.  Being on my own also makes it easier/quicker to get ready in the morning.  Most alburgues require you to be out the door by 8am.  I'm usually up around 5:30am and out the door by 6:30.  Sometimes, it is difficult moving about in the morning when you're trying to pack your backpack in the dark, and at the same time not wake the late sleepers up.

I also included a picture of my first course for the dinner I had tonight.  The prices on the Camino still blow my mind.  My room this evening was 9 euros, and the dinner was 7 euros.  Most meals in Spain include 2 main courses and then a postre or dessert.  There is always ample water, wine, and fresh home made bread as well.  My first course tonight was a nice salad with some fresh tuna on top.  I've yet to have a salad here without tuna on top!  The Spaniards love their fish, and it is generally included as one or two of the choices that we get when eating at a local bar/restaurant or alburgue.  My main course was pasta with cheese and tuna on top.  Dessert was vanilla pudding with tuna.... actually they left the tuna out for the postre... thankfully!

Tomorrow I head towards the historical city of Leon, pronounced Leeown.  The city has a population of around 130,000.  The ciudad changed hands many times during its history, so there is ample evidence of Roman ruins, Gothic splendour as seen in the Cathedral, as well as Renaissance and neo-Gothic influence. 

 I may treat myself to a pension or a nicer hostal for tomorrow night.  I'm supposed to meet a British couple (Doug and Natasha) in the city center tomorrow evening for a (little experiment) to find the best tapas in the city.   I'm really looking forward to that.  Doug and I have both decided to try octopus, so that should be interesting.

Here are some pics from my journey today.

Lights out.

Stage 15- Carrion de los Condes to San Nicholas del Real Camino

"Success is determined by the glands.
Sweat glands."
- Zig Ziglar

I walked from Carrion de los Condes to San Nicholas del Real Camino today, covering 32.8 km, 20.4 miles, and 44,013 steps.  I started off around 6:45 and didn't reach the first town, some 18 km later until around 11:30 am.  The terrain was relatively flat today and nothing really stood out along the way.  The book describes this stage of the Camino as being featureless, and I would have to agree.

I walked alone for most of the day, but did spend about an hour walking with Frank from Stuttgart, Germany and Brenda, a retiree from Ireland who now lives full time in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida.  I checked into my alburgue around 4pm, and then had some dinner with Antonio from Milan, Italy.  I continue to enjoy the experience of meeting so many people from around the world, even if I often can't understand half of what they're saying!!

Less pics today due to the less inspiring terrain.

Lights out.